Welcome to the wonderful world of aquariums. Starting a tropical fish aquarium is a fantastic hobby that brings the underwater world into your home. We are going to cover some basic guidelines to help you set up your first tank. A little planning and preparation can go a long way to ensure a safe, healthy environment for your fish to thrive.
Step 1: Choose the Right Tank Size
Before you decide what size your first aquarium will be, decide what fish you want to keep. Do you want a goldfish tank or a tropical one? If you decide on tropical fish, do you want nano fish like Neon Tetras or Celestial Pearl Danios? For beginners, a 20–30-gallon tank is a great starting point. Smaller tanks (like 5 or 10 gallons) may seem easier, but they’re actually more challenging because water conditions can change rapidly in small volumes. A medium-sized tank is more forgiving. Check out our blog post “Beginner Friendly Fish.” Make sure your aquarium is near a power outlet for your equipment and away from windows which can cause excess algae growth from direct sunlight.
Step 2: Select the Right Equipment
Your fish tank will need several pieces of essential equipment to maintain water quality, temperature, and oxygen levels. Here’s a list of the basics:
- Filter – A good filter removes waste and toxins, keeping the water clean and clear. Two popular choices for beginners are Hang on Back (HOB) power filters or canister filters. Both filters will generally contain the same filter media. A sponge or foam to absorb solid waste, carbon to absorb impurities and odors, and media for biological filtration. HOB filters typically use ceramic while canister filters can use ceramic or bio balls. HOB filters sit on the top ledge of your aquarium and canister filters sit under the aquarium and use tubing to pull water into the filter and push filtered water back into the tank. Be sure to choose a filter rated for the size of your tank.
- Heater – Tropical fish prefer warm water, typically between 75-80°F while goldfish should be kept between 68-74°F. A heater with an adjustable thermostat is ideal to keep the water at a consistent temperature. Some aquarium heaters are sold without an adjustable thermostat because they are programmed with a pre-set temperature. Purchase the proper wattage heater for your tank size. A general rule is 5 watts per gallon. For example, a 20-gallon aquarium would need a 100-watt heater.
- Lighting – Lighting will depend on the contents of your aquarium. Planted aquariums will need a full spectrum light to support plant growth. LED lights are the best option as they are energy efficient and have a long useful life. RGB LED lights will provide the best coloration for your inhabitants. White-only LEDS tend to wash out colors. To avoid algae issues, be sure to use the built-in timer, if your light has one, or you can buy a timer online or at hardware stores.
- Thermometer – A thermometer will allow you to monitor the water temperature daily, ensuring it stays within the ideal range for fish. Heaters can malfunction so keeping an eye on your water temperature ensures your water doesn’t become too hot or cold.
- Water Test Kit – A test kit helps you monitor levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH in the water, all of which are vital to fish health. Liquid test kits are more accurate than test strips. Digital pH meters are also a great choice because they provide accurate and nearly instant readings. Testing your water should ideally be done daily.
Step 3: Prepare the Substrate
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the tank, typically gravel or sand. There are also a variety of substrates for planted tanks on the market. If you want to plant live plants in your aquarium, a planted tank substrate is best as they provide nutrients for the plants to thrive. For beginners, gravel is often the easiest to clean and provides a stable base for decorations.
Be sure to rinse gravel or sand thoroughly before adding it to the tank to remove any dust or debris. Place your gravel or sand in an old pillowcase and rinse it outside under the hose or in your tub until the water runs clear.
Step 4: Add Water and Condition It
Once your substrate is in place, fill the tank with water. You can place a bowl or plate on top of your substrate to help prevent it from being disturbed. Live aquarium plants can be planted in your substrate before you add water. If you’re using tap water, it likely contains chlorine or chloramine (a combination of chlorine and ammonia), which are harmful to fish. Use a water conditioner to neutralize these chemicals and make the water safe. If you are unsure if your source water contains chlorine or chloramine, it’s best to purchase a water conditioner that neutralizes both. Some water conditioners only remove chlorine without neutralizing the ammonia.
Step 5: Cycle the Tank
Cycling the tank is crucial for establishing a balanced environment. This process builds up beneficial bacteria that break down fish waste, preventing harmful toxins from accumulating. Here’s how:
- Add a Source of Ammonia – To start the nitrogen cycle, add a small amount of fish food or bottled ammonia to the tank, commonly called ammonium chloride.
- Wait and Test – Over several weeks, the beneficial bacteria in your filter will grow. Use your test kit to check the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. You will see ammonia present in your water first, then nitrite, and finally nitrate. The cycle is complete when ammonia and nitrite levels drop to zero, and nitrates are present at safe levels. You can complete water changes to help keep your nitrates low. This process can take a few weeks, so patience is key. It’s worth the wait to ensure a safe environment for your fish.
Step 6: Decorate Your Tank
Aquarium decorations not only make the tank visually appealing but also provide hiding spots for your fish. You can use:
- Live or Fake Plants – Live plants have the added benefit of producing oxygen and absorbing waste, but fake plants are easier to maintain.
- Rocks and Driftwood – These create natural hiding spots and can make the tank look more like your fish’s natural habitat.
- Aquarium-safe Ornaments – Choose items made for aquarium use to avoid adding toxins to the water.
Step 7: Introduce Your Fish
Once the tank is fully cycled, it’s time to add fish! Start with hardy species that are beginner-friendly, such as tetras or zebra danios.
- Acclimate the Fish – Place the bag containing the fish in the tank for 15-20 minutes to equalize the temperature.
- Opening the bag – Open the bag and carefully dump the fish into a bowl.
- Gently Release the Fish – Use a net to scoop out your fish and place them in the aquarium. Discard the water in the bowl - Never add it to your aquarium.
It’s better to start with a few fish and gradually add more as you become comfortable with tank maintenance.
Step 8: Establish a Maintenance Routine
Maintaining a tropical fish tank doesn’t need to be time-consuming, but consistency is key. Here’s a basic routine to keep your aquarium healthy:
- Daily: Feed your fish, check the water temperature, and observe your fish for any signs of illness. Test your water daily (especially when adding your first fish) to ensure you don’t have a spike in ammonia levels. If you do, add an ammonia binder to the water.
- Weekly: Test the water, clean any algae off of the glass and decorations, and do a partial water change (about 10-15% of the tank water).
- Monthly: Rinse out your filter sponge and bags of carbon. It is best to use tank water since the chlorine in tap water will kill off beneficial bacteria. Read the instructions on the box as to when the carbon should be replaced.
Conclusion
Setting up a tropical fish aquarium can be incredibly rewarding, especially if you take the time to create a stable environment for your fish. By following these steps, you will have a vibrant, thriving aquarium that brings color and life into your home. Remember, patience and consistent care are the keys to success, especially for beginners. If you have any questions during your fishkeeping journey, feel free to contact us! Happy fish keeping!